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Replace transmission Output seal and bushing on a 240 series Volvo
(This was done on a
1988, 240GLT B230E, AW70 - 190,000 kms)
Preparations are important.
A good working area, front wheels on ramps, rear on axle
stands.
The
Auto Transmission (AW70) of my Volvo had been leaking
transmission fluid lately, lots of it actually so it was really
time to do something about it. After doing some research on the
Brickboard, it was clear that the tailshaft seal and the bushing
needed replacement, there was a lot of play in the shaft ! So I put the front
wheels on ramps and lifted the rear wheels on axle stands to
enable me to turn the driveshaft and wheels to remove the flange
bolts.
I always take my time to prepare this type of jobs and won't
rush into it without doing some homework first. The internet is
an excellent source of information and at the bottom of this
page you can find a link to the Brickboard for additional information.
When you have a spare car like me (1968 Volvo Amazon - actually,
that is my main car) there is no need to rush this job. In some
publications people boast "this job took me 3 hours to
do" but it all depends on your technical knowledge,
experience, tools available, work area and urgency to finish
the job. My advice is take time and when not sure about part of
the job, ask others, there are plenty of good Volvo
Forums around.
Here is the description on how I did the job, which is not very
difficult:
- Put the front of the car on ramps
and rear on axle stands, to enable you to turn the
driveshaft and wheels.
- Drain
the transmission fluid.
- Support
the transmission under the pan, with an hydraulic jack or
similar.
- Remove
the 4 Transmission cross member bolts from the chassis, the
cross member is now hanging on the rubber support. Check the
rubber support carefully, it may need replacement.
- Remove
the 2 support bolts at the transmission and remove the
crossarm. The tailshaft housing is now accessible.
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Support
removed
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- Remove
the gearlever linkage pin/clip and move the link out of the
way.
- Remove
the 4 driveshaft bolts at the flange. Check now for play in
the shaft. If there is any play my advice is to be prepared
to replace both the seal and bushing.
- With
transmission now in Park, remove the centre bolt from the
transmission flange.
- Pull
the flange off.
- Remove
the 6 tailshaft bolts.
- Remove
tailshaft housing from transmission by carefully tapping it
with a rubber hammer and pull it off the transmission.
- Clean
the tailshaft housing and remove the old gasket from both
surfaces. To remove the old gasket from the transmission is
actually the hardest (most frustrating) part of the job
because difficult access to do it properly and very time
consuming. I used gasket stripper, a sort of paint stripper
in a spray can.
- If
you have the new bushing and seal handy, press out
the old bushing and seal and press the new parts in
place. I actually took the tailshaft housing to a
local Transmission specialist (Marshall
Transmissions) who replaced the bushing and seal for
me overnight and also supplied a new gasket.
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Cleaned
tailshaft
Housing
with new bushing & seal
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- I smeared a little RTV on both sides of the gasket before
installation. Also used some transmission fluid around the
shaft. I found it easy to install the tailshaft
housing with the shaft in place. Put the 6 bolts in
place, but not tight yet.
- Install the centre bolt in the shaft and torque it
properly.
- Torque the 6 rear housing bolts.
- reconnect the gear lever linkage.
- Install the driveshaft with the 4 bolts.
- Install the cross member to the Transmission.
- Install the cross member to the chassis. Don't forget the
spacers.
- Remove temporarily transmission support.
- Lower the Volvo.
- Add new transmission Fluid (Dextron II or III) approx. the
amount that was drained
- Test drive the Volvo
- Check fluid again and add if necessary.
- Clean the underside of your Volvo.
Jim
Hekker
Webmaster
Feedback from Jim Silliman:
This weekend I replaced the front engine seals on my '86 240DL wagon with help from your instructions. Thanks again for providing a good set of instructions for an amateur mechanic (I used your tailshaft bushing replacement instructions with success about a year ago).
I would like to make one suggestion though. You should mention to beware not to push the crankshaft seal too far/deep. Not realizing that there isn't a stop for the seal to push again, I gave it a little push to seat it and it slid about 7 or 8 mm too far. Luckily I was able to get another seal from the auto parts store the next day and tried one more time after removing (and destroying) the first replacement seal.
With that said, thanks again for your help.
Jim Silliman, La Grange, Kentucky, USA
Links:
Brickboard
FAQ - very detailed information, questions and answers about
auto transmission work.
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